The Bernina Express: two hours of the Alps from a window seat

The morning begins early, but not excessively so. The drive from Casa Maria to Tirano is brief, just enough for a coffee and a road that still feels half asleep. Before boarding, a quick visit to the Basilica della Madonna di Tirano is worthwhile. It's the sole basilica in the entire province of Sondrio — a five-minute stop, but it’s the perfect way to ease into a day that already has its rhythm.

Next is the station, the platform, and those red carriages that embody a century of history. The Bernina Express has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2008, and National Geographic ranks it among the world's top ten most beautiful train journeys — not for its speed, but for the opposite: the leisurely way it reveals the landscape.

The train starts at 429 meters and ascends gently, without the need for a rack-and-cog system — it’s the highest adhesion railway in Europe, reaching 2,253 meters at Ospizio Bernina, overlooking a lake that in summer reflects the snow of the Bernina and Morteratsch glaciers. Shortly after Tirano, the train navigates the Brusio spiral viaduct: a complete loop, designed to lose altitude without steep gradients, appearing more like a drawing than a railway from the window.

The journey continues through terraced vineyards, woodlands, and stone villages like Poschiavo, all the way to St. Moritz and the Engadin valley. It takes two and a half hours in total, during which little happens, yet much is seen — a balance that, in Valtellina, is generally what people seek.

A few practical notes

The train departs from Tirano station and operates year-round, even in the depths of winter, with schedules that vary between summer and winter seasons — it’s advisable to check the Rhaetian Railway's official site before planning your day. During peak season, panoramic seats sell out quickly, so booking a few days in advance prevents disappointment at the ticket counter.

How we see it

This isn’t just a checklist item — it’s a day that stands on its own merit. An early start, a late-afternoon return as the light changes, and once you're back at Casa Maria, the house's tranquility feels different — the natural counterpoint to a day spent watching the Alps pass by outside a window.